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The exceptionally talented designer, Emilie Helmstedt – one of those who, with her quirky design and magical, dreamy universe, have contributed to placing Danish fashion on the global map; Emilie Helmstedt a 100% Copenhagener Christiania born, LVMH semi-finalist, Danish designer and Forbes Under 30 nominee behind the fashion brand HELMSTEDT.
After founding the brand in 2018, Emilie Helmstedt has consistently blurred the lines between fashion and art and continues to captivate with whimsical designs. Emilie’s background in a crafts-focused family and education at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts shaped her artistic vision, earning international recognition, winning the prestigious Wessel & Wett Fashion Prize. Known for her sustainable, hand-painted and technically advanced pieces, Emilie creates garments that are truly wearable art.
Interview set up by SVPR.
Hi Emilie! It’s a pleasure to sit down with you! Let’s go back in time for the first question. Growing up in Christiania, what kind of kid were you, what did you enjoy doing and how did you spend your time?
I’ve always been driven by my own dreams, even as a little girl. I struggled with math and grammar in school, so I found relief in crafting and learning to sew—it felt like my way of expressing myself. Also, I was so inspired by my family — creativity runs in my family. My grandmother was an artist who made these huge wall paintings out of fabric and thread, and her mother was a haberdasher while my dad’s mom was a seamstress. So, using my hands to create and tell stories through materials was something that felt very natural to me. It’s always been a big part of how I spent my time growing up.
Growing up in such a unique and free spirited place, has that influenced your work or the way you approach certain things?
I actually spent my early years in Brønshøj, where I grew up and attended Copenhagen’s largest primary school. There, being “good” meant excelling in subjects like spelling and math, which I struggled with. I felt like the system didn’t have room for someone who saw the world in colors and shapes instead of words and numbers. It wasn’t until I left the 9th grade that I felt like my life truly began—that’s when I realized there was more to life than just academics—there’s a whole creative world out there.
After that, I went to Byhøjskolen in Nørrebro for 10th grade, where the focus was more on creativity. It was liberating, and back then I spent a lot of time in Christiania. Hanging out there was simply freeing; it was a place where difference was celebrated. It was colorful, lively, and full of diversity. Out there, I learned that it’s okay to be different, and in fact, it’s something to embrace. That freedom to explore and express myself creatively really influences how I approach my work today.
Alright, now to something totally different… When did you start showing an interest in fashion?
Actually, Joining a leisure club around the years when I was in 9th grade was a real turning point for me, so when I was really young. I remember going completely crazy in the workshop there, sewing my own clothes, and it was such a mind-blowing experience, making me realize that there was not only space for creativity and imagination, but also delving into the world of textiles! Also, as I mentioned before. I come from a family of makers—my grandmother was an artist, and my great-grandmothers worked with textiles—so expressing myself through fabrics and colors felt natural. But it wasn’t until I was in that leisure club during school, and they had this workshop where I could make my own clothes, that I really felt thespark. I started sewing, and it was like something clicked—I could create entire worlds through garments.
Back in 2018 you start your own renowned namesake clothing brand. Can you tell me about what inspired that idea?
Starting my own brand, HELMSTEDT, felt like a natural extension of my love for art and storytelling. I wanted to create a space where fashion could merge with art in a playful, bold way. I was inspired by childhood memories, whimsical dreams, and the nature around me. I felt like there was a space in the industry for something more imaginative and personal, and that’s where the brand was born.
During this time, was there anybody guiding you? And how did you get your foot in the door of the fashion world?
I was lucky to have a few mentors along the way, especially other designers and artists who helped me navigate the complexities of the fashion industry. However, I also had to learn a lot on my own—figuring out the business side, building relationships with suppliers, and making sure my designs could actually come to life. I got my foot in the door by staying true to my vision, putting myself out there, and making connections in the Copenhagen creative scene.
Finding manufacturers for quality garments and materials can be tedious and difficult. Can you tell me about the initial process of sourcing garments and manufacturers for HELMSTEDT?
It was definitely a challenge in the beginning! I spent a lot of time researching and meeting with different manufacturers, testing fabrics, and visiting factories. My priority was always quality and sustainability, which made the process even more specific. It took some trial and error, but over time I found partners who understood my vision and could produce garments that reflected the artistic quality I wanted.
How do you translate your love for art and color into wearable fashion?
For me, it’s all about storytelling. I think of each collection as a kind of visual narrative, where colors, prints, and silhouettes come together to tell a story. I often start with a mood or feeling—something inspired by nature, a dream, or even a memory—and then I begin to explore how that can translate into fabric. I love to play with contrasts—bold, vibrant colors mixed with soft textures, or whimsical prints on classic silhouettes. It’s about creating pieces that feel like little works of art, but are still functional and wearable.
Can you walk us through your creative process, from concept to final product?
As mentioned, developing a collection always starts with something that sparks an idea, whether it’s a painting, a walk in the nature, or a childhood memory. From there, I sketch out rough ideas and start experimenting with color palettes and patterns. Once I have a strong concept, I work with my team to bring the designs to life, choosing fabrics and perfecting the cuts. There’s a lot of trial and error in the sampling stage, but eventually, everything comes together in a way that feels cohesive.
How do you balance maintaining your brand’s signature style with evolving fashion trends?
It’s always a balancing act between staying true to HELMSTEDT’s identity—playful, bold, and colorful—and staying relevant in a fast-changing industry. I keep an eye on trends, but I never let them dictate the direction of the brand. Instead, I look for ways to incorporate elements of current trends that can blend seamlessly with our signature style. It’s more about evolving organically rather than following what’s popular at the moment. Staying authentic is key, but that doesn’t mean we can’t explore new ideas and innovate within that framework.
Are there any specific artists or designers that have significantly influenced your work?
One artist who has had a big influence on me is Poul Gernes. I have a cupboard that he decorated—it’s pink with blue legs, small checks, and a mirror. What I love about his work is how he turned everything upside down; there was no right or wrong in his world. I’ve taken that approach with my own designs. Why can’t I just paint an oil painting of the sea and put it on clothes? That sense of creative freedom, where boundaries don’t exist, is something I carry with me in everything I create.
HELMSTEDT is known for its bold use of color and playful designs. How do you see this reflecting your personal philosophy?
I’ve always believed in the power of imagination and creativity. I approach design with the idea that there are no boundaries, which is why my work is so colorful and playful. I think fashion should evoke joy, curiosity, and a sense of wonder—just like art. My philosophy is to create garments that allow people to express themselves freely and celebrate their individuality. There’s something magical about creating pieces that make people feel empowered and connected to a story.
How do you ensure sustainability and ethical practices within your brand?
Sustainability and working responsibly is very important to me. We’re always working on improving our practices, from using more eco-friendly materials to ensuring that our production process is ethical. We’re also mindful of producing in small batches to avoid waste. This fall, we also introduced an upcycled collection made from stock of our previous collections. Sustainability is a journey, and we’re committed to being as responsible as we can while still creating beautiful, high-quality pieces.
What does the idea of ‘wearable art’ mean to you, and how do you bring this concept to life in your designs?
‘Wearable art’ to me is about turning everyday garments into something that tells a story or sparks an emotion. I love the idea that clothing can be more than just functional—it can be a form of self-expression, a way to carry a piece of art with you throughout your day. I try to bring this to life by incorporating hand-drawn prints, bold color combinations, and thoughtful details that make each piece feel special and unique.
HELMSTEDT has collaborated with various brands and artists. How do you choose your collaborators, and what do you look for in a partnership?
When choosing collaborators, I look for people or brands that share a similar creative vision and values. It’s important that there’s a sense of mutual respect and understanding, and that we’re both excited about what we can create together. I’m always looking for collaborations that push boundaries and bring something fresh to the table, while still aligning with HELMSTEDT’s ethos.
It’s been 6 years since you founded the brand. Where do you see HELMSTEDT in another 6 years? What’s your future vision for the brand?
In the next 6 years, we see HELMSTEDT growing both creatively and commercially. We’re excited to expand into new markets and reach a wider audience while staying true to our brand DNA and design language. It’s important to us to keep that playful, artistic spirit at the core of everything we do, even as we grow. We want to explore new collaborations, push creative boundaries, and continue to innovate, but always with the same commitment to quality, sustainability, and unique design that defines HELMSTEDT as a brand.
I know it’s still a young brand, but looking back, what are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced while building HELMSTEDT?
One of the biggest challenges was figuring out the business side of things. As a creative, it can be tough to balance the artistic vision with the logistical and financial aspects of running a brand. Sourcing the right materials, building a team, and ensuring that everything runs smoothly behind the scenes have all been big learning curves.
What advice would you give to new entrepreneurs looking to start their own clothing brand?
Stay true to your vision and don’t be afraid to take risks. The fashion industry can be tough, but if you’re passionate and authentic, people will notice.
How do you balance creativity and business in the fashion industry?
It’s definitely a constant balancing act. I’m fortunate to have a fantastic team behind me, which makes a huge difference. They can support in developing and handling the financial aspect of the brand, so I can focus more on the creative process and what I am good at. But even with a great team, it’s about trying your best to stay organized and knowing when to switch between being the artist and being the business owner.
Alright Emilie. I always ask this question at the end of an interview… What’s your favorite movie(s) and why?
One of my favorite films is Bennys Badekar, a Danish animated classic by Flemming Quist Møller and Jannik Hastrup and that also inspired so much my designs.. The story is about Benny escaping the adult world into a magical universe that hides at the bottom of his bathtub, filled with crabs, lobsters, and pirates. The film’s playful and imaginative world has always resonated with me. It reflects how limitless creativity can be, and I often draw inspiration from that same sense of wonder and magic in my designs. It’s a reminder to embrace fantasy and let imagination lead the way.