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Dingyun Zhang‘s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, “PLAYFORM,” is a fascinating exploration of nostalgia and futurism, where childhood memories collide with cutting-edge design. Zhang delves into the relics of his youth, specifically his fascination with G.I. Joe action figures, reimagining them through a distinctly sophisticated and often playful lens. The collection’s title, “PLAYFORM,” perfectly encapsulates this duality, merging the uninhibited creativity of “play” with the structured nature of “form.” This fusion results in a subtle yet impactful redefinition of traditional uniform codes.
The collection is characterized by its radical proportions and innovative silhouettes. Zhang isn’t afraid to experiment with exaggerated shapes and unconventional forms, pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear. This boldness is balanced by a clear focus on the interplay between functionality and aesthetics. Garments aren’t merely visually striking; they’re designed with a purpose, seamlessly blending practicality with a strong sense of style.
A military-inspired aesthetic permeates the collection, but it’s a far cry from standard military wear. Zhang refines this influence, incorporating utilitarian details while maintaining an air of sophistication. Think elevated outerwear, ultralight jackets, and ski pants presented in a palette that nods to military hues but feels distinctly modern. Waterproof fabrics, reflective finishes, and camouflage prints are integrated not just for their visual appeal but also for their functional properties.
The G.I. Joe influence is woven throughout the collection, from the exaggerated shapes and utilitarian details to the lookbook itself, which features rigid mannequins sporting camouflage face paint—a direct homage to the action figures that fueled Zhang’s childhood imagination. This playful nod to the past is further amplified by the use of coated fabrics mimicking leather, sculptural hooded masks, and innovative layering techniques. These elements combine to create a futuristic silhouette that feels both familiar and utterly contemporary. “PLAYFORM” isn’t just a collection; it’s a narrative, a dialogue between past and present, expressed through bold design and a touch of playful nostalgia.
Photos: Dingyun Zhang