For Spring-Summer 2026, Acne Studios presented a collection that dismantles gender codes and proposes a modern interpretation of femininity. Shown at the Collège des Bernardins during Paris Fashion Week, the historic venue was reimagined as a smoky, tension-charged salon, a fitting backdrop for a lineup that merges androgyny, experimentation, and bold self-expression.
The designs pivot around hybrid aesthetics. Deconstructed suit jackets and uniform shirts blur the line between masculine and feminine. Haute couture lace, cut and reassembled into patchwork resembling tattooed skin, adds a subversive sensuality. Juxtapositions define the rhythm: a lumberjack shirt worn with a light skirt, faded poplin next to distressed leather and suede, delicate knits layered with hole-ridden sweaters. Denim becomes a laboratory of ideas, appearing ripped, reconstructed, latex-treated, and even referencing the brand’s “1999” silhouette, albeit with distorted proportions.
Accessories amplify the narrative. Highlights include aviator glasses with reflective or clear lenses, belts with oversized buckles, and XXL earrings set with stones. Footwear is equally audacious: square-toe loafers, pumps with elevated fronts, and thigh-high cowboy boots that dominate the silhouette. In leather goods, new interpretations of the Camerobag appear alongside the debut of the Hotel, a voluminous weekender designed to take space.
The show’s imagery, crafted by Pacifico Silano, featured collages with homoerotic undertones, seamlessly integrated into the set. Music curated by Robyn—mixing new tracks with a Robotboy rework featuring Yung Lean—gave the collection an emotional pulse.
As Acne Studios approaches its 30th anniversary, the SS26 collection poses a vital question: how should femininity be defined in today’s cultural landscape?
Ph. Acne Studios