UNDERCOVER isn’t shouting anymore—because it doesn’t have to. Since launching in Tokyo’s punk underground in 1993, and later flipping expectations at its Paris debut in 2002, Jun Takahashi’s label has mastered the art of subtle disruption. This season, the rebellion is quiet, but no less radical.
Set against a dusty pink backdrop, the new collection leans into silence over spectacle. No bombastic logos. No hype-fueled graphics. Just the raw language of form, fabric, and flow. Handwritten slogans, delicately stitched motifs, and off-kilter tailoring draw the eye—but only if you’re really looking. Here, the power is in the details: a skewed shirt hem, a zipper gone rogue, a phrase that half-reveals.
The silhouettes are unapologetically loose—oversized shirts, boxy blazers, fluid trousers—all cut with an eye for movement and balance. There’s an undercurrent of ease, but it’s never lazy. Mandarin collars, knotted buttons, and new-gen cargo pants in technical nylon bring a kind of controlled chaos, made for walking, not posing.
Photos: UNDERCOVER / Mitsuo Okamoto