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Tremaine Emory’s Denim Tears returns this summer with 5th Quarter, a collection that digs deep into the cultural and emotional dimensions of basketball—not through the lens of competition, but through what happens after the game. The title refers to the often-overlooked “fifth quarter”: the quiet, reflective space where athletes grapple with identity, heritage, and what it means to exist beyond sport.
The collection thoughtfully merges the language of athletic wear with the richness of African diasporic traditions. Sweatshirts and track pants are adorned with mudcloth-inspired patterns, game towels are reimagined as objects of ritual, and even a necklace constructed from basketball netting becomes a powerful visual metaphor.
At first glance, the collection may appear understated, but beneath the minimalist aesthetic lies a heavy dose of symbolism. Full basketball kits are decorated with motifs that draw from traditional African textiles, while tailoring elements—like a waist-cinched suit jacket—recall ceremonial dress. Emory also pays tribute to John Thompson, the trailblazing coach who became the first African American to lead a team to an NCAA championship, anchoring the collection in both cultural pride and sports history.
With 5th Quarter, Emory continues to blur the lines between fashion, storytelling, and activism, using clothing as a canvas to explore what it means to belong, perform, and remember.
Photos: Denim Tears